A nice cup of Java

OK, so I've been in Jogjakarta for almost a week now, and I still haven't managed a post. Odd, since internet is free at the glorious Duta Hotel I'm staying at. I think my first impression about Jogja was that it was a mistake to come here. While Bali is all sweet and pastoral and the people are really nice, Jogja is a big bad gruff polluted city full of endless becak touts saying "Transport" like some absurd tourism Greek chorus. Still, the Duta Hotel with its lush landscaped courtyards, swimming pool, air conditioning, tv, and my private outdoor bathroom with a fish pond, made it seem like I could just stay here and ignore the city around me. Every afternoon tea is brought to your room with a little local pastry. The hotel gods have smiled upon Duta. That said, if I had stayed in my room, I would have missed Borobudur and Prambanan and Kraton Boko and the Sultan's Palace and most important of all, the Religion Tour with Corry and Tina, which was more of a conversation about religion and feminism and tradition in Java than a guided tour. And that may be the point about Jogja: it may have its city annoyances, but it has far more offer than Bali does. It was no mistake coming here.

In fact, I think I can safely say, no matter what else happens on this trip, I feel grateful and honored to actually be a part of this. No matter what annoyance comes my way, in two hours time it will be replaced by some other, far more interesting experience. I feel fortunate to have met so many interesting people, seen unusual sights, and eaten different foods.

One quick unrelated comparison, based on my conversation with Corry and Tina last night. I think Americans feel that Thailand is the friendly country, and I suspect some of this comes from sex tourism: Thailand just has amuch freer attitude about sex than all of its neighbors. That said, compared with Indonesians, the Thai are a bit stand-offish. Sure you can talk about politics, but the Thai people I met kept me at arms length, and could not understand why I was not travelling with my family. As a result, it was hard to get to know them, perhaps just because it was early in this trip and I hadn't warmed up to the task yet. But Indonesian people are extremely open and inquisitive. I now associate this with Javanese culture which seems to acquire every interesting aspect of the different cultures and religions that have swept over and over and over it. Americans may think the Thai are friendly, or at least willing to fool around; but the Indonesians are like some liberal, multicultural dream.

Back to Bali tomorrow, then on to Sydney, then home to NYC for three days before a month in South America. Could someone please stop time for a moment and let me catch my thoughts?